Today, we started exploring the south side of Mt. Rainier National Park, after spending most of our time yesterday in the Sunrise corridor on the NE side of the park.
The Mountain Goat
Leaving Ashford, WA around 07:45, we retraced our drive from last night back to Packwood, WA and headed to The Mountain Goat for breakfast and coffee. We ordered a blueberry scone; two ham, bacon, cheddar, and green onion scones; two blackberry cream cheese pinwheels; a plain iced latte (that was supposed to be hot) for me; a drip coffee for Dad; and an iced Americano for Faith.
The pastries were all very good, but the coffee left a lot be desired. Even though they roasted it fresh daily, it was very dark and obviously not very high quality.
Finishing up our breakfast, we quickly stopped in Blanton’s Market, a small IGA grocery, to grab some fruit and cheese for Walker, and some aloe lotion for my sunburn.
Ohanapecosh
Driving about 11 miles north, we returned to the Ohanapecosh area. Faith and I had been debating about what hike we should do, so we stopped in the visitor center to get some information. The bridge across the river at the Grove of the Patriarchs hike was still washed out, so we opted to hike the Silver Falls loop instead.
Faith, Walker, and I geared up for the hike, while Mom and Dad stayed to explore the visitor center.
The trail begins with a sharp climb, and then levels out. The first point of interest is the Ohanapecosh Hot Springs. While not as big or impressive as those in Yellowstone, they definitely smell just as sulphur-y. The hot springs used to attract thousands of people to the area, but to most people they are now just a stop on a side trail.
The trail continues through old-growth forest alongside the Ohanapecosh River.
Soon, we arrived at the trail’s namesake feature – Silver Falls. This multi-tiered waterfall is beautiful, especially since it’s surrounded by the thick forest. Walker loved seeing the waterfall, and enjoyed the shaded hike through the forest.
We took the footbridge across the river, and briefly clambered upstream to get a peek at the upper falls through the trees.
Leaving the falls, we headed downstream on the opposite side of the river from our approach hike, following it downstream back to the campground and visitor center.
Cruiser's Pizza
We were all very hungry after the hike, so we drove back to Packwood to find lunch. Many restaurants were still closed, just like last night, but we finally landed at Cruiser’s Pizza. Mom, Dad, and I each ordered a cheeseburger (two with onion rings, and one with fries), while Faith and Walker split a pizza with Canadian bacon and pineapple.
We were pleasantly surprised by the food, considering our initially low expectations. It helped that we were hungry.
Ohanapecosh, Again
After finishing up our lunch, we drove back to Ohanapecosh so Faith and I could browse through the visitor center exhibits, and so Mom could see the river from the bridge, since she didn’t earlier.
Leaving Ohanapecosh and driving on the freshly-paved and newly-reopened Steven’s Canyon Road, we climbed higher, approaching the south face of the mountain.
Box Canyon
We made a brief detour to Box Canyon, a narrow slot canyon carved by the Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River. There’s a short loop trail that provides views down the terrifyingly steep 180′ cliff walls. Dad and I walked around to take in the views, while everyone else proclaimed they were too tired, and stayed in the car.
Reflection Lake
Our next roadside stop was at Reflection Lake, with a clear view of the mountain. We got out so everyone had time to stretch their legs, walk around, and enjoy the stunning view of the mountain and the crystal-clear water.
Inspiration Point
Continuing up the road, we pulled over briefly at Inspiration Point for another great mountain view.
Myrtle Falls
Faith and I loaded up Walker in the backpack carrier and started out for Myrtle Falls, one of the park’s most frequently trafficked waterfall hikes. Although a little steep in spots, the trail is only about a mile round-trip, and ends at a footbridge the crosses a beautiful 72′ waterfall.
Inn, ETc.
Back at the Paradise parking lots, we briefly stopped in the historic Paradise Inn, and then rejoined Mom and Dad at the Visitor Center.
We all got a small cup of vanilla soft-serve and ate it in the air conditioning. They sometimes offered raspberry or marionberry, but were sold out for the day.
Narada Falls
Heading downhill from Paradise, we enjoyed many roadside waterfalls along the way. We made a brief stop at Narada Falls, a 168′ waterfall just off the side of the road. However, accessing the main viewing platform required a very steep and somewhat lengthy downhill hike, so we decided we’d save that for another day.
Ricksecker Point
Taking a short scenic bypass onto Ricksecker Point Road, we made another quick stop for a view. This detour used to be part of the road to Paradise, but was considered the most dangerous stretch despite its beauty. When the National Park Service redid the road, they left the viewpoint available as an alternate route for visitors, since it offers such great vistas. However, the main route now avoids the steep cliffs that loom just off the side of the original road.
Nisqually River
Eventually, we crossed a colossal bridge across the Nisqually River, which was the former path of the Nisqually Glacier. The river has carved its way through the moraine over the years, but the valley itself is much larger than you’d expect for just a glacially-fed river.
From the river, we drove west back to our cabin in Ashford.
Ashford
We decided to get takeout from Wildberry Restaurant for dinner. The restaurant is run by a Sherpa (that’s literally his last name), who used to be a guide on Mt. Everest. As of 2003, he held the time for the fastest ascent of the south side of the mountain. He’s climbed Mt. Everest 15 times, and has summited Mt. Rainier over 95 times. Apparently, Rainier is a popular place for Everest climbers to train because of the similar conditions.
Mr. Sherpa runs a Nepalese/American restaurant; accordingly, we ordered both American and Nepalese food for dinner. Faith got the Sherpa stew, which is a hearty beef and vegetable stew in a curry broth; I got dumplings filled with spiced pork; Mom and Dad each got a Caesar salad. For dessert, we split two slices of their famous marionberry pie.
The food was excellent, especially the dumplings. It was a nice change to have a novel cuisine (at least to us). The service in the restaurant was very good, and it was an honor to meet such an accomplished mountaineer. One funny note though: when I gave my name (“Isaac”) for the order, he wrote it down as (“Ajik” // ah-jick). Close enough, I guess…
wildberry Restaurant
Ashford, WA
I don’t know what the standard should be for Nepalese cuisine, but their food seemed great to me. Very flavorful and filling after a long day of climbing mountains. The service was great too, and it was interesting to see the displays of the owner’s life as a Sherpa.
* – Would definitely visit again
** – Exceptional, must visit if you’re in the area
*** – Worth making a special trip to eat there
Video
Here’s a short video from today’s adventures.
The Best Things we Saw Today
Isaac
The best thing I saw today was… “the Silver Falls Loop trail at Ohanapecosh”.
The best thing I ate today was… “pork dumplings”.
Faith
The best thing I saw today was… “Reflection Lake”.
The best thing I ate today was… “Sherpa stew”.
Jerry
The best thing I saw today was… “the path the glacier had taken to form the Nisqually River”.
The best thing I ate today was… “Marion blackberry pie”.
Amy
The best thing I saw today was… “all the waterfalls”.
The best thing I ate today was… “the blackberry pinwheel”.
Conclusion
Thanks for reading! Click here to subscribe to email notifications.
Tomorrow morning, we’re taking a train ride, and then continuing to explore the south side of the national park in the afternoon.
– Isaac, Faith, Jerry, Amy, and Walker
One Response
So beautiful!
Loved the snow on the mountain peaks, the waterfalls, forests and looking at your food! Yum!
Thanks for sharing!